Fragrance Pharmacopoeia
- verryk
- Apr 11, 2020
- 8 min read
Updated: Nov 3
An article exploring the possible pharmacological effects of botanical perfume.
written by Zéa-Sergeanne Hattingh
- April 2020 -
Edited October 2025
OUTLINE
INTRODUCTION
Centuries ago, scent was used to heal. Our sense of smell was entwined with everyday life throughout history. Fragrance is an integral part and ever apparent in day-to-day life today, even if most of us may be unaware of it.
Perfume, natural botanical perfume, is made from plant aromatics which have profound powerful properties.
Inhaling scent can cause various psychological and physiological reactions, as our sense of smell is directly linked to the limbic system, which controls many functions of the body.¹ Using natural botanical perfume ultimately has a pharmacological effect on overall health, mood and well-being.
HISTORY OF AROMATIC MEDICINE
Aromatic plant oils have been used for millenium as medicine. In fact, it was originally distilled for its healing and medicinal properties, with a pleasant fragrance as a secondary pleasure which later morphed into perfume. Up until the 18th century, a clear differentiation between medicine and perfumery was not made.²ª
Most parts of the world have aromatic medicine somewhere in the history of its health care.³ Many ancient civilisations - including the Chinese, Indians, Egyptians, Greeks and Romans used aromatic oils for health, hygiene, and in cosmetics and perfumes. It was also used as drugs and for treating manias, depression and nervousness by the Egyptians.⁴ª
Pleasant fragrances from aromatic plants were believed to avert and treat diseases that were thought to be caused by unpleasant and poisonous odours.²ª
Various aromatics were prescribed by Roman perfumers (ungentarii) to treat certain diseases. These ungentarii and their methods were considered quite efficient and significant, alongside doctors of the time.⁵ª
Indian perfumeros used the fragrance of aromatic plants to heal in prehistoric times. Today, aromatics are still used in Ayurvedic medicine, which is an ancient Indian medical system and still forms a part of India’s health care.³b, ⁶
In the ninth century, apothecary shops in Baghdad manufactured medicines from aromatics and dispensed them in numerous forms, including inhalants.³c
Aromatic herbs have often been used as inhalations in Tibetan medicine. Tibetan medicine is based on writings from the eighth century, and has similarities to Chinese medicine.³b
In Morocco, the Berbers cured headaches and fevers by inhaling a fragrant mixture of several herbs.⁷
Healing with scent was essentially a known and effective way of treating disease and ailments throughout the course of history.
WHAT IS AROMATHERAPY
Aromatherapy is the use of essential oils to promote healing and overall health and well-being. This is achieved through our sense of smell, by means of inhaling, and topical application and massage therapies are also frequently used.³d
The term “aromatherapy” was coined by chemist René-Maurice Gattefossé and appeared in the book he wrote in 1937 - Gattefossé’s Aromatherapy. Gattefossé burnt himself whilst conducting experiments in his laboratory, and in a frenzy decided to submerge his hand in a vat of lavender essential oil. His wounds made a remarkable recovery and he was intrigued by the healing properties that essential oils possess; he researched the topic extensively throughout his lifetime.³e
Jean Valnet, an army physician, also wrote a book on aromatherapy, The Practice of Aromatherapy and successfully used essential oils on wounds of soldiers during World War II.³e,⁵b
A nurse, Marguerite Maury, investigated aromatherapy and published her book on the subject in 1961, Le Capital Jeunesse. She developed various massage techniques that best suited the maximum effect of essential oils. Maury classified essential oils into numerous clinical categories and won two international prizes for her research.³e
Aromatherapy is used to enhance physiological and psychological well being. It is considered an alternative form of medicine, and is becoming increasingly popular and recognised as a successful strand of pharmacology.³f
ESSENTIAL OILS, AROMATIC ABSOLUTES AND THEIR EFFECT
Natural fragrance materials in the form of essential oils and absolutes are highly concentrated and tremendously complex materials of fantastic odour quality, but also of healing components. Essential oils and absolutes are the “essences” of the plant or material that it is made from - it is characteristic of the plant and encapsulates its scent and flavour.¹
When we encounter a wound on our skin, our blood immediately flows there in order to heal and seal it from infection. Similarly, plants also have a fluid that protects it when it gets injured - in the form of an oil or resin. The plant releases this oil to clean the wound, eliminate bacteria, and initiate recovery. It contains nutrients, vitamins, minerals, antibodies as well as lots of other organic molecules, which makes it an extremely efficient supportant. It also carries necessary nutrients and oxygen to the cells in the plant, aiding its immune system. This material is the essential oil of the plant - the very core that keeps the plant healthy, strong and free form pests.⁵c
Essential oils consist of anti-bacterial, anti-fungal, antiviral and antiseptic qualities, which can support our immune systems and promote healing when used. Components of essential oils are found in the bloodstream shortly after inhalation. Inhalation is the oldest, simplest and fastest method of all the methods known to transport essential oils into the body. When inhaled, the essential oil travels to the lungs which is closely related to the bloodstream.
Intentionally smelling something activates the olfactory system, and causes a chemical reaction - the brain responds to chemical components or odour molecules of an essential oil. These components advance through the nose to the olfactory bulb, which then leads to the limbic system. ⁵c, ³g
The limbic system is essential for proper functioning of one’s body. It influences the processing of emotion, emotional memory and response, and the feelings of fear and aggression. It is also accountable for feelings of wellness and harmony. Memory, and the forming thereof, is governed by the limbic system which also plays a vital part in learning. The limbic system translates most sensory input and forwards it to the corresponding voluntary and involuntary motor centres, and is responsible for a collection of physiological functions. Odours have been shown to have an instantaneous and significant effect on the central nervous system regarding respiration, pulse and blood pressure. ³h, ¹
STUDIES
Various studies have been done on the effect of inhaling essential oils and the following studies support the idea that essential oils exert a pharmacological effect.
In one study⁸, inhaled lavender oil had a positive impact on the autonomic nervous system by reducing blood pressure, heart rate and skin temperature. It also improved mood by the subjects being more active and relaxed. In addition to this, brain activity increased. The overall conclusion is that inhaling lavender oil has a relaxing effect on a physiological as well as psychological level.
Lavender can also aid in the treatment of migraine headaches. A study⁹ was done comparing two groups, and the group that used lavender when migraines arised had significant results, where 75% of the headache attacks responded positively to inhaling lavender.
Bergamot was used in a clinical study¹⁰ to observe its psychological and physiological effects, as it is used extensively in aromatherapy to alleviate stress and anxiety. Compared to the control group, the group that inhaled bergamot had lower cortisol levels; parasympathetic nervous system activity increased; and negative emotions and fatigue showed improvement.
A study¹¹ conducted on women in labour had positive results in reducing anxiety levels. They were given orange oil to inhale, and it reduced their stress during labour considerably.
In a study¹² done on patients with mild to moderate generalised anxiety disorder, chamomile extract was used. The result was an impacting decrease in anxiety rating scores, especially opposed to the placebo control group. Chamomile has been shown to have an anxiolytic effect.
Inhalation of essential oils does have a positive impact on both a physiological and psychological level, indicating that it does indeed have a pharmacological effect. ³i, ¹³, ¹
CRITIQUE ON AROMATHERAPY
Today, many aromatherapists couple inhalation with massage, which is not necessarily a problem but it is difficult to distinguish what exactly resulted in the beneficial effect - the massage, the inhalation, or the combination of both.
Then there is the obstacle that inhaling a fragrance cannot be an entirely blind study due to the fact that you become aware of the scent you smell. Some psychology might very well be involved and psychosomatic effects are not excluded.
Another point is that not all aromatherapists use high quality, unadulterated oils for their therapies. Using natural, unadulterated essential oils is of paramount importance because their synthetic counterparts simply do not have the same beneficial properties. A plant’s essence is not the same as a synthetically constructed copy. ⁵c
Some aromatherapists are clinically and scientifically inclined, and others are not. That can result in non-methodological practice with inconsistent results.
SAFETY: ALLERGIES AND PREGNANCY
Essential oils and absolutes are highly potent, concentrated and complex materials. It is natural and derived from plants, but if used in excessively high amounts it can be toxic. Inhaling essential oils is safe and not hazardous to one's health, and it is highly improbable that adverse effects will result from ordinary use of essential oils.
Pregnancy and essential oils is a contentious topic. Again, essential oils used in moderate amounts by expecting women cannot possibly present any harm to the baby. Aromatherapy and the use of essential oils might, as a matter of fact, be advantageous for women that are expecting.
Skin allergies caused by essential oils or absolutes is quite possible, but numerous factors are involved. Damaged or sensitive skin might be more susceptible to allergic reactions, as will a pre-existing allergy or dermal condition. Undiluted materials and high amounts thereof will tend to have a sensitising effect. An individual’s own unique chemistry will also respond differently to different materials.
A skin patch test is advisable to do with a certain material in order to determine if it causes an allergic reaction; also researching a specific material extensively if concerned about the effect it might have is best.
With natural perfume, the essential oils and absolutes are already diluted and very little is applied to the skin - resulting in extremely low quantities of the materials actually coming into contact with one’s skin. It is therefore unlikely that natural perfume will cause an allergic reaction or harm if used in sensible amounts. ¹⁴
CONCLUSION
Scent has a significant effect indeed. Our sense of smell is intrinsically part of our human functioning and influences many operations. Materials that make up natural botanical perfume are complex and consist of astounding medicinal and healing properties⁵e and, once inhaled, undoubtedly have a pharmacological effect - physiologically and psychologically. So, whilst botanical perfume might be made primarily for a pleasant fragrance, it is undeniable that it would also have a beneficial effect and enhance health, mood and overall well-being.
REFERENCES AND SOURCES
1 HEALTHLINE: What Are Essential Oils, and Do They Work?
By Helen West, RD (UK) on September 30, 2019
2 PERFUMERY: Practice and Principles
By Robert R. Calkin, J. Stephan Jellinek, 1994
2a pg. 19-20
3 CLINICAL AROMATHERAPY: Essential Oils in Practice
By Jane Buckle, 2003
3a pg. 11, 3b pg. 14, 3c pg. 16, 3d pg. 10, 3e pg. 20, 3f pg. 5, 3g pg. 22, 29, 3h pg. 30, 31, 3i pg. 33
4 THE FRAGRANT PHARMACY: A home and health care guide to aromatherapy and essential oils
By Valerie Ann Worwood
4a pg. 9
5 THE AROMATHERAPY HANDBOOK: Essential Oils for Psychological and Physical Well-Being
By Goldstein, Moore, Peters, Poulton, Watson, Wusterhausen, 2006
5a pg. 6, 5b pg. 8, 5c pg. 9, 5d pg. 7, 5e pg. 12
6 Ayurvedic Medicine: In Depth | NCCIH - National Centre for Complementary and Integrative Health
7 ESSENCE & ALCHEMY: A Natural History of Perfume
By Mandy Aftel, pg. 15
8 The effects of lavender oil inhalation on emotional states, autonomic nervous system, and brain electrical activity
J Med Assoc Thai. 2012 Apr;95(4):598-606
9 Lavender Essential Oil in the Treatment of Migraine Headache: A Placebo-Controlled Clinical Trial
Eur Neurol. 2012;67(5):288-91. doi: 10.1159/000335249. Epub 2012 Apr 17.
10 Effects of Bergamot...
Forsch Komplementmed 2015;22:43-49
11 The Effect of Aromatherapy by Essential Oil of Orange on Anxiety during Labour: A Randomized Clinical Trial
Iran J Nurs Midwifery Res. 2015 Nov-Dec; 20(6): 661–664
12 A Randomized, Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Trial of Oral Matricaria Recutita (Chamomile)...
J Clin Psychopharmacol. 2009 Aug;29(4):378-82
13 Aromatherapy in the Management of Psychiatric Disorders: Clinical and Neuropharmacological Perspectives
CNS Drugs 2006;20(4):257-80
14 Safety - Exploring Aromatherapy | NAHA - National Association for Holistic Aromatherapy
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